Collecting Estee Lauder: Part Two - Cinnabar, Youth Dew, and Opium

You might wonder why Opium is included here. Well, historically speaking, Opium is positioned neatly between Youth Dew and Cinnabar, and I can't help but view all three as volumes of Marcel Proust's 'In Search of Lost Time': emotionally dense, linguistically sumptuous, and sequentially connected. A common trend with Cinnabar and Youth Dew by Estee Lauder is that after their last and unfortunately unsuccessful reformulation, their prices skyrocket. To makes matters harder, obtaining a bottle with intact top notes is like hitting the jackpot. However, even if only middle and base notes remain, I'd advise holding onto the bottle, as there are far worse alternatives. Pristine-looking, full bottles may arrive damaged and unwearable. If you have saved a couple of bottles, remember that storing them is also quite a challenge. If you use them, they may deteriorate due to shaking and light exposure, but neglecting them can also lead to spoilage, as the spraying mechanism needs regular use. In a way, it's like fish – it rots from the head. So, even if you don't wear them, I'd recommend occasionally spraying the perfume on paper to ensure the old liquid in the spraying mechanism is expelled. All of the above applies equally to Opium.

But do you truly need all three? While there are subtle differences between them, they share quite a lot of common ground. There are notable distinctions, of course, for example, Youth Dew is undoubtedly the soapiest of the trio, with a bolder use of aldehydes. Cinnabar, on the other hand, exudes a more cheerful air, akin to Opium's younger sister who opts for minimal makeup and jeans instead of tight skirts. Yet, upon closer examination, her unmistakable family resemblance becomes apparent.

Cinnabar, with its delightful Coca-Cola-like opening owed largely to citrus notes, is often the most difficult to find fully intact. Opium, on the other hand, even without its top notes remains a worthy acquisition due to a very rich dry-down. Interestingly, I find that Youth Dew typically arrives intact to me, but goes off first on my shelves once I begin using it. However, even in younger bottles Youth Dew retains its charm, although arguably it is the most reserved of the three, which is befitting since, metaphorically speaking, she is the oldest sister.

As the story goes, Youth Dew inspired the creation of Opium, though some argue its lineage traces back to Shalimar. Nevertheless, the uncanny resemblance between Opium and Youth Dew is undeniable. In response to Opium, Cinnabar emerged with a fresher face and a more jovial demeanour, not entirely devoid of drama, but undoubtedly easier to handle.

I can't recommend which one to choose, but if you genuinely enjoy one, the others may prove to be intriguing discoveries. If you keep one for curiosity's sake, the other two may become redundant. For me, the joy lies in spraying all three at once, witnessing the cloud of spices and resins fill the air, evoking something old, beautiful, and seemingly unattainable, yet captivating for that very reason.